Here are my recommendations for how to patina metals based on my experiments: Colours: For a Deep, Bright Turquoise and Blue Verdigris: I have to admit, though this method took a while an was super stinky, it did work, and I like the was the bits of egg create a random texture depending on where contact was made between bits of egg and metal.
You are creating an art piece after all, so if gloss is your thing, go for it. I tend to use a matt or satin varnish because I like a more authentic looking patina. The varnish can be water or solvent based. This will both protect the paint and patina and prevent the patina developing further. You’ll probably need at least 2 coats, depending on the thickness of your paint.Ĥ – Once your paint is fully dry, it’s time for the really fun stuff – corroding the metal powder to create the patina – scroll down for more about this.ĥ – Once you have achieved a patina you like, rinse off your piece with water to prevetn further patination and leave it to dry completely.Ħ – Seal the patina in using a clear varnish. Let it fully dry off.ģ – Paint your pic with your DIY Patina Paint. Isopropyl Alcohol or turpentine will usually do the trick, or sugar soap (TCP) on more delicate surfaces. Step 2 – Clean you project thoroughly using an appropriate cleaner for your surface. With this technique, it’s not so bad if the surface is a bit rough, because the paint will cover it, and the patina process always adds a lot of texture anyway. It’s just to give the medium something to grab onto. Step 1 – Lightly scuff up the surface using sandpaper or a sanding pad. This was so that if I missed any spots when painting it, or if some of the patina gets knocked off somehow, I won’t be left with a glaring white patch. I used fleur-de-lys mouldings in the brown colour (which is a pigment added when I mix the resin) to demonstrate these processes. Make sure you dry the last coat properly, and stir the paint very well between coats as the metal powder may have sunk to the bottom.Ī with any paint project, you’ll need to prepare your surface well. It’s also not a huge problem if your paint is a bit runny – you’ll just have to add more coats until the project is well covered. Cracks will just add texture to the final patina. The first coat probably won’t cover well, so you’ll need a second coat anyway. It’s not the end of the world if it cracks. Mine was about the consistency of double cream. The consistency of the paint should be fairly fairly thick, but not tick enough that it cracks on the project when it has dried. And voila! You have just made your own DIY Patina Paint! Pretty easy, huh? Step 3 – Mix the powder and medium together well. PVA is quite thick and sticky, so you will probably need to water it down a little. The ratio needed will depend on the binder you use. Step 2 – Measure your binding medium into a cup. If in doubt, mix a small amount to begin with – you can easily mix more. The amount you will need will depend on the size of your project. Step 1 – Measure out the powder into a cup.
#CHEMICAL PATINA COPPER MOD#
A clear, water based medium, such as acrylic glaze, a pouring medium, water based varnish or you an even use a PVA glue such as Mod Podge.
Chemistry truly is one of nature’s decorators. I love seeing a plain, boring, dull bit of metal transform into something beautiful. I’ve been experimenting with how to patina using DIY patina paint and household chemicals, and I have to say, it’s absolutely fascinating – and fun!
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